Where to stay. Updated November 2026. 5 min read.
Laikipia is a high plateau of private and community conservancies between Mount Kenya and the northern drylands. It holds more rhinos than any other part of Kenya, and its lodges let you sleep under the stars, ride a horse among giraffes, or meet the last two northern white rhinos on Earth. There are no crowds, because there are so few camps and so few roads in.
The short answer: if it is your first time and rhinos and chimpanzees top your list, stay at Ol Pejeta in the south, the easiest to reach. For a honeymoon or a top-end safari with walking, go to Lewa or Borana in the east, or Loisaba in the north for its star beds. For a family trip on a ranch, look at the family-run houses and camps in the north and center. For the closest rhino viewing of all, add a night at Solio. Every area offers activities the national parks do not: walks, night drives, and horse and camel safaris.
The areas
| Area | Character | Picks |
|---|---|---|
| Ol Pejeta (south, near Nanyuki) | 90,000 acres; the northern white rhinos Najin and Fatu; a chimpanzee sanctuary; the most accessible | Sweetwaters Serena, Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, Kicheche Laikipia, Porini Rhino, The Stables |
| Lewa and Borana (east) | Rhino conservancies, Lewa part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the Lewa Safari Marathon | Lewa Wilderness, Sirikoi, Lewa Safari Camp, Lewa House, Borana Lodge, Laragai House, Il Ngwesi |
| Loisaba, Mugie and Sosian (north) | Star beds, horse riding, camel walks, wild dogs | Loisaba Tented Camp, Loisaba Star Beds, Lodo Springs, Sosian, Mugie House, Ol Malo, Ol Lentille |
| Segera and El Karama (center) | Art and high luxury; a family ranch camp | Segera Retreat, El Karama |
| Solio (south, Nyeri side) | A rhino sanctuary with some of the closest rhino viewing in Kenya | Solio Lodge |
Ol Pejeta: rhinos and chimps, close to Nanyuki
Ol Pejeta covers about 90,000 acres just outside Nanyuki, which makes it the easiest Laikipia conservancy to reach by road or air. It is home to Najin and Fatu, the last two northern white rhinos on Earth, along with black and southern white rhinos, the Big Five and a sanctuary for rescued chimpanzees. Stays range from Sweetwaters Serena, the value choice by a waterhole, to the small tented camps such as Ol Pejeta Bush Camp and Kicheche Laikipia. It is the best Laikipia base for a first visit or a shorter trip.
Lewa and Borana: the classic rhino conservancies
Lewa, on the northern slopes below Mount Kenya, is part of the Mount Kenya UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the great rhino conservation stories in Africa. Borana, next door, shares its rhino population across an open boundary. The lodges here are small, mostly family-run and expensive, with walking, riding and night drives. Lewa is also home to the Lewa Safari Marathon. Il Ngwesi, on community land to the north, is a community-owned lodge and the value choice in this corner.
Loisaba, Mugie and Sosian: the wild north
The northern conservancies are drier, wilder and more remote, with views north toward the Samburu country. Loisaba is known for its star beds, open-sided platforms where you sleep under the sky, and for leopards. Sosian and the ranch houses here offer horse riding, camel walks and a real chance of wild dogs. Ol Malo and Ol Lentille are small, private and ideal for families or friends who want a whole house.
Segera, El Karama and Solio
Segera Retreat in the center of the plateau pairs a serious art collection with high-end luxury. El Karama is a relaxed family ranch camp. To the south, near Nyeri, Solio is a rhino sanctuary where sightings are frequent and close, and Solio Lodge is a top-end stay for a night or two.
Lodges by budget
| Lodge or camp | Area | Style | Price band | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sweetwaters Serena | Ol Pejeta | Tented camp by a waterhole | Value | First visits, rhinos and chimps |
| The Stables | Ol Pejeta | Simple rooms | Value | Budget and groups |
| Il Ngwesi | North of Lewa, community land | Community-owned lodge | Value | Walking and community tourism |
| Porini Rhino | Ol Pejeta | Small tented camp | Mid-range | Rhino tracking at a fair rate |
| Ol Pejeta Bush Camp | Ol Pejeta | Tented camp on the river | Upper mid-range (deluxe) | Couples |
| Kicheche Laikipia | Ol Pejeta | Small tented camp | Upper mid-range (deluxe) | Photographers |
| Lewa Safari Camp | Lewa | Tented camp | Upper mid-range (deluxe) | A first taste of Lewa |
| Sosian | North | Ranch lodge | Upper mid-range (deluxe) | Riding and wild dogs |
| El Karama | Center | Family ranch camp | Upper mid-range (deluxe) | Families |
| Loisaba Tented Camp | Loisaba | Tented camp | Top end | Leopards and views |
| Loisaba Star Beds | Loisaba | Open-air star beds | Top end | Honeymoons |
| Lewa House | Lewa | Family-run lodge | Top end | Families and walkers |
| Laragai House | Borana | Exclusive-use house | Top end | Groups of friends |
| Mugie House | Mugie | Exclusive-use house | Top end | Families |
| Ol Malo | North | Family-run lodge | Top end | Families who want privacy |
| Ol Lentille | North | Private houses | Top end | Total privacy |
| Lewa Wilderness | Lewa | Family-run lodge | Top end (premier) | Riding and walking |
| Sirikoi | Lewa | Lodge | Top end (premier) | Honeymoons |
| Borana Lodge | Borana | Lodge | Top end (premier) | Rhinos and Mount Kenya views |
| Lodo Springs | North | Lodge | Top end (premier) | Remote luxury |
| Segera Retreat | Center | Villas | Top end (premier) | Art and high luxury |
| Solio Lodge | Solio | Lodge | Top end (premier) | Close rhino viewing |
Who should stay where
- First-timers who want rhinos: Ol Pejeta, two nights, with the chimpanzee sanctuary and the northern white rhinos
- Honeymooners: Loisaba Star Beds, Sirikoi or a top-end Lewa lodge
- Families: a ranch house such as El Karama, Ol Malo or Lewa House, where children can ride, walk and help with camp life
- Active travelers: Sosian or Lewa Wilderness for riding, or a camel walk in the north
Fees and seasons
Conservancy fees vary from about $60 to $150 per person per night and are usually inside your camp rate. Many Laikipia camps close in November, during the short rains, so check before you book that month. The dry months give the clearest Mount Kenya views at dawn. Rates are high here because bed numbers are low, and much of what you pay funds rangers and rhino protection.
How many nights
Plan two nights at Ol Pejeta, or three in the north or at Lewa, where activities such as riding and walking fill your days. Laikipia pairs naturally with Samburu to the north, three to four days in all.
Getting there
Nanyuki, the gateway town, is about 3 hours from Nairobi by road and about 45 minutes by air from Wilson, with daily flights. Lewa and Loisaba have their own airstrips. Ol Pejeta is a short drive from Nanyuki; the northern conservancies are a longer drive on rough roads, so most guests fly.
What we recommend
For a first trip, we book two nights at Ol Pejeta by road from Nairobi, then fly or drive on to Samburu. For a honeymoon or a second safari, we choose Lewa or Loisaba and fly in. Tell us what you most want to do on foot, on horseback or by night, and we will match the lodge.
