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A platter of grilled lobster, prawns and fish

Mapishi

Mapishi means cooking, recipes.

Kenyan recipes to try at home

Twelve Kenyan home recipes, written for an American kitchen, with what to buy when the store does not stock unga.

Food and drink. Updated November 2026. 9 min read.

These are the recipes Kenyan families cook every week, written for a U.S. kitchen and a U.S. grocery store. They are built for Kenyans abroad who want the taste of home, for travelers who came back missing a dish, and for anyone curious. Quantities are in U.S. measures, and each recipe notes what to buy if your store does not stock the Kenyan ingredient. Most serve four.

Start with the classic plate of ugali, sukuma wiki and kachumbari, add a beef stew, and you have a Kenyan dinner. For a celebration, make pilau. For a coast weekend, make coconut fish and mahamri-style mandazi. Our dish pages tell the stories behind the food; this page is the kitchen.

U.S. pantry substitutions

Kenyan ingredientWhat to buy in the U.S.
Unga (white maize meal)Fine white cornmeal, or maize meal from an African grocery; not cornstarch, and masa harina only at a pinch (it tastes of tortillas)
Sukuma wikiCollard greens or kale
Managu or terereBaby spinach, or amaranth greens from Asian or Caribbean markets
DhaniaFresh cilantro
Pilau masalaReady-made from an Indian or African grocery, or whole cumin, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and black pepper
Mbaazi (pigeon peas)Canned gandules from the Latin aisle
Goat meatHalal butchers and Caribbean or African markets; lamb shoulder works too
TamarindTamarind paste or concentrate from an Indian, Asian or Latin grocery
Kenyan loose teaAny strong loose CTC black tea, such as an Assam or a Kenyan brand online
A bowl of coastal curry with rice and chapati

Ugali

The country's staple. You need a heavy pot and a sturdy wooden spoon. Serves 4.

  • 4 cups water
  • About 2 1/2 cups white maize meal or fine white cornmeal, plus a little extra
  • Bring the water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Lower to medium
  • Sprinkle in 1 cup of the meal while stirring to make a smooth, thin porridge. Let it bubble for 2 to 3 minutes
  • Add the rest a handful at a time, pressing and folding the mass against the side of the pot, until it is stiff, smooth and pulls away from the pot, 8 to 10 minutes. Add a spoonful more meal if it is still soft
  • Turn it onto a plate, shape into a dome with a wet spoon, and serve hot with stew and greens

Sukuma wiki

Push the week: the everyday greens. The trick is slicing the leaves very thin. Serves 4.

  • 1 large bunch collard greens or kale (about 1 pound)
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste; optional pinch of bouillon powder
  • Wash the greens, cut out the thick stems, stack the leaves, roll them tight and slice into ribbons about 1/8 inch wide
  • Fry the onion in the oil over medium heat until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes
  • Add the greens and salt, toss well, cover and cook 5 to 7 minutes, stirring once, until tender but still bright green
A lobster and prawn platter with lime

Kachumbari

The fresh salsa that goes with nyama choma, pilau and almost everything else. Serves 4.

  • 3 ripe Roma tomatoes, thinly sliced or diced
  • 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 small hot chili or half a jalapeño, finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
  • Juice of 1 lemon or lime, and 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • Rub the onion with a pinch of salt, let it sit 5 minutes, then rinse and drain; this softens the bite
  • Toss everything together just before serving. Add a diced avocado or cucumber if you like

Chapati

Kenyan chapati is soft and layered, thanks to oil rolled into the dough. Makes 8.

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil for the dough, plus about 1/4 cup for layering and cooking
  • About 1 cup warm water
  • Mix the flour, salt, sugar and 2 tablespoons oil. Add water gradually and knead 8 to 10 minutes into a soft, smooth dough. Cover and rest 30 minutes
  • Divide into 8 balls. Roll each into a thin 8-inch circle, brush with oil, roll it up like a rope and coil the rope into a snail. Rest 15 minutes
  • Roll each coil into an 8-inch round. Cook in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until bubbles appear, about 1 minute; flip, brush with oil, flip again and press with a spatula until golden spots appear on both sides
  • Stack under a clean towel. Kenyan cooks scrunch the stack between their hands to open the layers
A carved brass Swahili pot

Kenyan beef stew

The everyday stew for ugali or rice. Kenyan cooks boil the beef first, then fry and simmer it. Serves 4 to 6.

  • 2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes, and 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons oil, 1 large onion (chopped), 3 cloves garlic and 1 tablespoon ginger (both minced)
  • 3 tomatoes, grated or chopped (or one 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes) and 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon curry powder, 2 carrots (sliced), 1 green bell pepper (diced), 2 potatoes (cubed, optional), cilantro
  • Simmer the beef with the salt in 3 cups water, covered, for 45 to 60 minutes until nearly tender. Keep the broth
  • In a large pot, fry the onion until golden, then the garlic and ginger for a minute. Add the tomatoes, paste and curry powder and cook until thick, about 5 minutes
  • Add the beef, about 2 cups of its broth, the carrots and potatoes. Simmer uncovered 20 to 25 minutes, adding the pepper for the last 5. Season and finish with cilantro

Pilau

The celebration rice. The color comes from deeply browned onions, so do not rush them. Serves 6.

  • 1 1/2 pounds beef chuck or bone-in goat, in small pieces, simmered in 4 cups salted water until tender (about 1 hour); keep the stock
  • 2 cups basmati rice, rinsed and soaked 20 minutes, then drained
  • 1/4 cup oil and 2 large onions, thinly sliced
  • Whole spices: 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, 6 cardamom pods (cracked), 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns; or 1 1/2 tablespoons ready-made pilau masala
  • 5 cloves garlic and 1 tablespoon ginger, minced; 1 1/2 teaspoons salt; 2 potatoes, quartered (optional, coast style)
  • Fry the onions in the oil over medium heat, stirring, until deep brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the whole spices for 1 minute, then the garlic and ginger
  • Add the meat and potatoes and fry 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir gently for 2 minutes
  • Pour in 3 1/2 cups of the hot stock (top up with water) and the salt. Bring to a boil, then cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 20 minutes. Rest 10 minutes, then fluff and serve with kachumbari

Githeri

Maize and beans, the school-lunch classic of central Kenya. Our shortcut uses cans. Serves 4 to 6.

  • Two 15-ounce cans red kidney beans and two 15-ounce cans white hominy (or 3 cups frozen corn), drained
  • 2 tablespoons oil, 1 onion (chopped), 2 tomatoes (chopped), 1 carrot (diced), 1 teaspoon curry powder, salt
  • Optional: 2 potatoes, cubed, and a handful of chopped greens
  • Fry the onion until soft, add the tomatoes and curry powder, and cook until saucy. Add the carrot and potatoes with 1 cup water and simmer 10 minutes
  • Add the beans and maize, simmer 10 more minutes until thick, add the greens for the last 3, and season
  • From dried: soak 1 1/2 cups dried beans and 1 1/2 cups dried whole maize overnight and boil until tender, 2 to 3 hours, before you start

Swahili coconut fish

Fish in coconut and tamarind, in the style of samaki wa kupaka. Serve with coconut rice. Serves 4.

  • 1 1/2 pounds firm white fish fillets (snapper, tilapia or cod)
  • Marinade: juice of 1 lime, 2 cloves garlic (crushed), 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
  • Sauce: 2 tablespoons oil, 1 onion (chopped), 2 tomatoes (chopped), 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste, 1 green chili, 1 teaspoon each ground cumin and coriander, 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • One 13.5-ounce can coconut milk and 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (or extra lime juice); cilantro to finish
  • Marinate the fish 20 minutes. Sear in a hot oiled pan or under the broiler, 2 to 3 minutes per side, and set aside
  • Fry the onion until soft, then the ginger-garlic paste, chili and spices for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook down, then the coconut milk and tamarind. Simmer 10 minutes
  • Return the fish, spoon the sauce over and simmer 5 minutes. Coconut rice: cook 2 cups basmati in one can of coconut milk made up to 3 cups with water, plus 1 teaspoon salt

Mbaazi za nazi

Pigeon peas in coconut, the coast breakfast with mandazi or mahamri. Serves 4.

  • Two 15-ounce cans pigeon peas (gandules), drained
  • 1 tablespoon oil, 1 small onion (chopped), 1 tomato (chopped), 1 green chili (split), 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • One 13.5-ounce can coconut milk, salt to taste
  • Soften the onion in the oil, add the tomato, chili and turmeric, then the peas and coconut milk. Simmer gently 15 minutes until creamy, and season

Mandazi

Lightly sweet fried dough with cardamom and coconut milk; shape them into triangles and they become the coast's mahamri. Makes about 24.

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour, 1/3 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 large egg, 3/4 cup coconut milk (plus a splash more if needed), 2 tablespoons melted butter or oil
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • Mix the dry ingredients. Add the egg, coconut milk and butter and knead 5 minutes into a soft, smooth dough. Cover and rest 30 minutes
  • Roll out 1/4 inch thick and cut into triangles or squares
  • Fry in oil at 350°F, a few at a time, turning once, until puffed and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and serve warm with chai

Kenyan chai

Boiled, not steeped. Makes 2 large mugs.

  • 1 cup water and 1 1/2 cups whole milk
  • 2 teaspoons loose strong black tea (or 2 tea bags)
  • 2 to 3 teaspoons sugar, or to taste
  • Optional: a 1-inch piece of ginger, grated, and 2 cardamom pods, cracked
  • Boil the water with the ginger and cardamom for 2 minutes. Add the tea and boil 1 minute
  • Add the milk and bring back to a boil, watching closely so it does not boil over. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes, stir in the sugar, strain and serve

Nyama choma at home

In Kenya it is salt and charcoal only. This version adds an optional marinade and an oven method for winter. Serves 4 to 6.

  • 3 pounds bone-in goat or lamb shoulder, cut into large pieces, or beef short ribs
  • 1 tablespoon coarse salt
  • Optional marinade: juice of 1 lemon, 3 cloves garlic and 1 tablespoon ginger (grated), 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1 tablespoon oil; rub on and chill 2 hours or overnight
  • Grill: set up charcoal for medium, indirect heat and roast the meat slowly with the lid on, turning every 10 minutes, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until browned and tender
  • Oven: roast on a rack at 325°F for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, then broil 4 to 5 minutes a side to crisp
  • Chop into bite-size pieces on a board and serve with salt, kachumbari and ugali

More to come

Samosas, mukimo and the community dishes of the Luo, Luhya, Kalenjin and Kamba have their own pages as we add them. If your family makes a dish differently, and every Kenyan family does, we would like to hear it. And if you want to learn from a Kenyan cook in a Kenyan kitchen, see our cooking classes.

Say it in Kiswahili

KiswahiliEnglish
KupikaTo cook
SufuriaCooking pot
MwikoWooden spoon for ugali
Chumvi kidogoA little salt
Karibu chakulaWelcome to the meal, please eat

Karibu Kenya. Why Kenya, and why us

  • Everything in one trip

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  • Conservation that works

    Community conservancies and rhino sanctuaries where tourism pays for wildlife and the people who live beside it.

  • Easy from the U.S.

    Apply for the eTA online and fly nonstop from New York to Nairobi, or one stop from most U.S. cities.

  • Planned by Kenyans

    Kenyan guides and hosts, two U.S. companies behind you, and the option to pay monthly with no deposit.

Common questions

What can I use instead of unga for ugali in the U.S.?

Fine white cornmeal works well, and African groceries sell Kenyan and other maize meals. Do not use cornstarch. Masa harina will set but tastes like tortillas, so use it only at a pinch.

What is a substitute for sukuma wiki?

Collard greens are the closest match, and kale works well too. Slice the leaves very thin and cook them quickly so they stay green.

What spices are in Kenyan pilau masala?

Cumin, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and black pepper are the core. Use them whole or buy ready-made pilau masala from an Indian or African grocery.

How do you make Kenyan chapati soft?

Knead the dough well, rest it, and fold oil into each round by rolling it into a coil before the final roll. Cook on medium-high heat and stack the chapatis under a towel so they steam.

What is the easiest Kenyan meal to cook at home?

Ugali, sukuma wiki and kachumbari: three simple recipes, cheap ingredients and about 30 minutes together. Add a beef stew or beans to make it a full Kenyan dinner.

Where can I buy goat meat in the U.S.?

Halal butchers and Caribbean, African and some Latin markets usually sell goat. Lamb shoulder is the easiest substitute for nyama choma.

More Kenyan food

The Kenyan food guide