Where to stay. Updated November 2026. 4 min read.
In Lamu you choose between three islands and two centuries: a restored merchant's house in the Old Town, a whitewashed villa above Shela beach, or a barefoot lodge on Manda across the water. All three are a boat ride apart, and none of them has cars.
Here is how to choose: stay in the Old Town for culture and atmosphere, in Shela for the beach, and on Manda Island if you want a resort. Groups and families often rent a whole house with a cook, which is the local way. We book all three, with the flight to Manda and the boat transfer, and we can split a longer stay between the Old Town and Shela so you get both. Before you book, check the current U.S. State Department advisory for Kenya and confirm your travel insurance covers your route.
The areas
| Area | Character | Picks |
|---|---|---|
| Lamu Old Town | Swahili houses, rooftops, the market at your door, the call to prayer at dawn | Lamu House, Subira House, Jannat House, Baytil Ajaib |
| Shela | The beach village; most guesthouses and villas; Peponi's bar | Peponi, Kijani, Banana House, Fatuma's Tower, private villas |
| Manda Island | Resorts facing Lamu; beach and quiet | The Majlis, Manda Bay |
| Kizingo and the south | Remote eco lodges | Kizingo |
Lamu Old Town
Lamu Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the oldest living Swahili town in East Africa, a grid of narrow lanes, carved doors and coral-stone houses. Staying here means the waterfront and the market are at your door, the rooftops catch the evening breeze, and the call to prayer wakes you at dawn. Many of the restored houses rent as a whole, which suits families and small groups. It is a conservative Muslim town: cover shoulders and knees in the lanes, and ask before photographing people.
Shela
Shela is the beach village, a short boat ride or a 30 to 45 minute walk along the shore from town, with a long beach of empty sand beyond it. Most of Lamu's guesthouses and villas are here, along with Peponi, whose bar on the waterfront has been the meeting point for decades. Shela is where swimwear is fine on the beach. The path between Shela and town is unlit, so take a boat after dark.
Manda Island and Kizingo
Manda faces Lamu across the channel and is home to the airport. The Majlis and Manda Bay are the choices for travelers who want a resort, with pools, water sports and quiet beaches. South of the archipelago, Kizingo is a remote eco lodge for people who want simplicity and space.
Places to stay by budget
| Place | Area | Style | Price band | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jannat House | Old Town | Restored Swahili house | Mid-range | Culture on a moderate budget |
| Subira House | Old Town | Restored Swahili house | Mid-range | Couples, quiet courtyards |
| Baytil Ajaib | Old Town | Restored Swahili house | Mid-range | Families and small groups |
| Lamu House | Old Town waterfront | Boutique hotel in restored houses | Mid-range | First visits |
| Banana House | Shela | Guesthouse | Mid-range | Relaxed beach stays |
| Fatuma's Tower | Shela | Guesthouse | Mid-range | Quiet retreats |
| Private villas with a cook | Shela and Old Town | Whole houses, rented through local agents | Mid-range to luxury | Groups and extended families |
| Kizingo | South of the archipelago | Eco lodge | From about $200 a night | Remote beach time |
| Kijani | Shela | Boutique hotel | From about $360 a night | Couples |
| Peponi | Shela | Classic beach hotel | From about $396 a night | Honeymoons and old-coast charm |
| The Majlis | Manda Island | Resort | From about $428 a night | Resort lovers |
| Manda Bay | Manda Island | Beach lodge | From about $440 a night | Water sports and seclusion |
Who should stay where
- For culture: a restored house in the Old Town, with the museums, the fort and the waterfront on foot
- For a honeymoon: Peponi or Kijani in Shela, or The Majlis or Manda Bay if you want a resort
- For a group or a family reunion: a whole villa with a cook, in Shela or the Old Town
Getting around, and what to expect
There are no cars on Lamu. Your luggage goes by donkey or handcart, and you move by boat or on foot. Book your boat transfer from the airport through your hotel. Bring cash, since ATMs are in Lamu town only, and mosquito nets are standard. Ramadan and the Maulidi festival change the town's rhythm, with shorter opening hours by day and busy streets at night.
When to go
The coast is warm all year, and the drier months from about December to March are the easiest for beach time and dhow trips. The calendar shapes the town as much as the weather does. Maulidi, the festival of the Prophet's birthday centered on the Riyadha Mosque, follows the Islamic calendar, so its date moves about 11 days earlier each year; check the dates for your year. The Lamu Cultural Festival, with its dhow races, donkey races and Swahili poetry, is usually in late November. During Ramadan, restaurants open later and the town comes alive after sunset. Book festival dates well ahead, because the best houses fill first.
Getting there
Manda Airport has flights from Wilson Airport and JKIA in Nairobi, about 1 hour 45 minutes, followed by a 10-minute boat ride across the channel. Schedules change, so check with the airline.
What we recommend
For a first visit of three or four nights, we suggest two nights in a restored Old Town house and two in Shela, so you wake to the call to prayer and then to the sea. Honeymooners often go straight to Peponi or Kijani, and families and groups do best in a whole villa with a cook. If Lamu comes at the end of a safari, a quiet resort on Manda near the airport makes the last flight home easy. Tell us your dates, your budget and who is coming, and we will match the house to the trip.
