Kilimani and Kileleshwa: Nairobi's apartment neighborhoods for longer stays

If you are coming home for December with three children, two suitcases of gifts and a list of relatives to see, this is where you want to wake up. Kilimani and Kileleshwa are Nairobi's apartment neighborhoods: residential streets, serviced flats with kitchens and washing machines, supermarkets a short drive away, and most of the city within half an hour.

Choose them for a stay of a week or more, for family visits and for value: a two or three-bedroom serviced apartment often costs less than two hotel rooms, and you can cook. They suit a single night before a safari flight less well, when Karen near Wilson Airport makes more sense. Our where to stay guide compares every area; this page is about how to live here for a few weeks.

What the two areas are like

Kilimani runs west from the center along Ngong Road and Argwings Kodhek Road and is the livelier of the two, with cafes, gyms, bars and restaurants, and apartment blocks on almost every street. Kileleshwa, just to the north toward Lavington and Westlands, is quieter and greener, with older trees and more family homes among the newer blocks. Both have changed fast as houses gave way to towers, so construction noise is part of the deal on some streets. Ask for a unit away from a building site, and look at the view from the actual apartment, not the brochure.

Who stays here

Kenyans in the U.S. visiting family, especially from mid-December to early January; parents bringing children to meet grandparents for the first time; students and interns on a semester; remote workers; and anyone who would rather have a kitchen and a living room than a hotel bedroom. Kilimani is also one of the city's nightlife hubs, alongside Westlands, so it suits travelers who want a night out without crossing town.

Daily life: shops, cafes and errands

• Yaya Centre on Argwings Kodhek Road: a long-established mall with a supermarket, pharmacies, banks, a food court and phone shops for a local SIM.
• Adams Arcade and Prestige Plaza on Ngong Road for groceries, chemists, cafes and everyday errands; Junction, further out on Ngong Road, adds more shops and restaurants.
• Cafes: Kenyan chains such as Java House and Artcaffe have branches in the area, with Wi-Fi good enough for a morning's work and ice cream for the children.
• Gyms with day and monthly passes; ask your apartment which is closest.
• Kenyatta Market, near Kilimani off Ngong Road, for nyama choma at local prices, hair braiding and phone repairs.
• The Nairobi Arboretum, off State House Road on the edge of Kileleshwa, for a shaded walk or run under labeled trees.

The December scene

From about mid-December to early January, Kilimani becomes the diaspora's living room. Families fly in from Atlanta, Houston, Dallas, Minneapolis and Boston, and rooftop bars, nyama choma joints and Sunday brunches fill with American accents and reunions. It is the best time to be here and the worst time to arrive without a booking: apartments, cars and drivers fill up, and prices rise. We suggest booking by September for December, and allowing extra time on the roads, which are at their busiest before Christmas. Our December in Kenya guide adds short safaris that fit around family time.

Choosing a serviced apartment

• A backup generator and a water tank: power and water cuts happen, and a good building covers them.
• A guard at the gate and parking, so a driver can wait for you.
• A lift if you are traveling with grandparents or a stroller.
• The Wi-Fi speed in writing if you need to work.
• Housekeeping and laundry included, or priced up front.
• Distance from construction sites and busy bars, if you want to sleep.

Getting around

Ride-hailing is cheap and easy here, and matatus run the length of Ngong Road for the adventurous by day. Our Nairobi transport guide covers both.

Safety

Residential and generally calm by day; after dark, use app rides even for short distances, and choose a building with a guard at the gate.

Our apartment picks

We keep a short list of serviced apartment buildings in Kilimani and Kileleshwa that we have inspected, at three budgets. Rates are per night or per week, and long stays often earn a lower weekly rate. Tell us how many of you are coming, how long you are staying and which relatives you plan to visit, and we will match the building to the family. If you are bringing children for the first time, read our guide to taking children to Kenya before you book.